Interviewing Bertony Faustin, a winemaker who happens to be black, there was a moment when I thought how dumb this is that I am interviewing a man just because he is black. It was like being a kid when you cut through the adult bullshit and question the core suppositions and supposed logic of their world with a simple question. But then the frustrating answer: because it’s more complicated.
And obviously it’s more complicated. There are only a handful of black winemakers in Oregon – and there is a history why that is the case to do with racism and power. Innocence maybe applauded but isn’t always a virtue in the messy and sticky world we have created.